Pond Build with a Blue Eco Twist 10-12-2015

[Russell Peters]

The lumber sat for about 3 1/2 weeks and dried out a bit which caused a little shrinkage. With this some of the concrete came out between the boards but not too much.

[Russell Peters]

I did put in a single return line just before the pour. This allows some of the water to bypass the shower if needed.

[Russell Peters]

Here is the final product before the forms get stripped.

[Russell Peters]

Day 8,9,10 and 11
I came back to Costa Mesa this last week to finish what I could. There are still some filtration choices to be made and some finishing choices as well so I did every thing that could be done until then. I did not remember to bring my camera, but had my iPad, so I decided just to take some pictures at the end. On the first day I ground down the concrete walls of the pond and skimmed areas that needed to be filled.
While I was away Jane had someone dig a hole that was 32" wide and 5' deep for the sump container. There is not way to drain the water from the RDF, or pond, by using gravity flow. The areas being drained are over than the street level. There is a 3" line that goes from the filter pit area to the sump. In the sump pit there is a sump pump with a float switch that will turn it on when the water gets high enough. I put a high loop into the 2" line, going to the sewer, and on this section there is a ball valve and a hose bib. The ball valve can be closed and a hose hooked up to the hose bib so the water can be used to water the plants. While in the plumbing mode I also hook up the skimmer to the filter pit with a 3" pipe. All of this is buried and I don't have any pictures of it.
I ran a 3/4" copper water line to the filter pit area to feed the RDF, remember it runs on water not electricity, and I also ran an electrical line to the side of the pond for the sump pump.
The 3/4" air lines were run into the garage where the air pump and controller for the Blue Eco pump will be.

[Russell Peters]

I put in a plastic grate, raised it up 8", and on top of it there is Japanese mat and 4" of Lithaqua in Daiso bags, thank you Kevin.

[Russell Peters]

Here are the two 4" bottom drain lines and the 3" slimmer line feeding the RDF. You can also see the copper water line for the auto fill.

[Russell Peters]

The copper line going around to the back of the RDF to supply 'power' to the unit.

[Russell Peters]

Here you can see the two 4" lines that come out of the RDf and go into the Lithaqua chamber. You can also see the 3" drain line that comes out of the wall. It goes under the RDF and connects to the waste drain at the front of the unit. I also put in a 3 x 2 T so that the over flow line from the RDF could drain as well. The stand pipe, for the over flow, can be removed and this will allow for a water change.

[Russell Peters]

We used Xypex in the concrete pour which is the water proofing for the concrete. To get the inside of the pond this back color I used a pond paint.

[Russell Peters]

The final product.